Saturday, June 9, 2018

How to repurpose a T-shirt into a dribble smock

I got a request to replicate a garment for a baby that's a sort of bib with arm holes. And apron, if you will. Or a smock. I like the word smock. I asked her if she had some old clothes I could use to make these smocks. She went through her old t-shirts in storage and got some with sentimental value that she never wore anymore. 

The sample bib my friend gave me had a knit front and some kind of light gauge toweling on the back. There's a 4" ribbon between the front and the part that fastens in the back. I had some cotton terry cloth so I tried that on one. Then I showed it to my aunt who is a retired kindergarten teacher and she is a spit expert. She said all t-shirt material would probably be fine. Might not need the terry cloth. So for the shirts that didn't really go with white terry cloth I just used the back of the shirt for the reverse of the bib.

I eyeballed the original garment and drew a pattern. The original had velcro on it but I don't like velcro. I tried some plastic snaps on some of the ones I made her but I decided I sort of like this shoelace method the best. I will report back after these are tested on the baby.
Howl's Moving Castle T-shirt

Place the pattern 

Cut the pattern from both the front and back of the t-shirt. Flip the parts so it's right sides together

Cut a shoe lace in half and place the cut end at the turn in the armhole of the bib. Do both sides.
Cut out the pattern from both sides of the shirt. Flip the front and back so it's right sides together.
Cut a shoelace in half and the halves between the fabric layers with the cut end at the cut edges.
Pin together.
Sew around with a 1/4" seam allowance leaving a place to turn it and leaving a gap on both sides at the ends of the shoulders to thread the shoelace through.
Turn right side out.
Thread the shoelaces through the ends of the shoulder straps
Pin the shoelaces with 4" between the fabric parts
Pin the opening where you turned it.
Top stitch around the whole thing under 1/4" from the edge.
Finished front

Back of smock

I did one from a Big Lebowski t-shirt too, but it was a size enormous and the neckhole was so big I couldn't get the shoulder straps to work out. I made a new pattern that I think it not going to fit well. But the design was limiting. Here's how it turned out.

Bib Lebowski Back

Bib Lebowski
This is a good repurposing project without the terry cloth back because you don't need to buy any fabric. It's all just one t-shirt. You can buy this bib apron pattern online I'm pretty sure. A lot of them seem to use bias tape but that seems hard and expensive to me. This is easier.

Update 12 June 2018:

My client sent me a photo of her drooling youth who has soaked the top of Bib Lebowski with saliva. She reports the double layers of t-shirt do a pretty good job of keeping it off his outfit so she only has to change the smock throughout the day.


Update 15 June 2018:

I decided to digitize this pattern so I don't lose it. It fits on a ledger sized sheet of paper so you could print it if you had a big printer.

I ended up making about 16 of these things. I used terry cloth for the backing for about half of them and then decided it was too hard to sew and switched to flannel for the backing. My favorite is half t-shirt, half flannel. This is thin enough I can close it with Kam Snaps. (Shoelaces are expensive.) I can get 4 smocks out of 1 man's XL t-shirt. Be sure to pre-wash the flannel.


Thursday, May 31, 2018

How to Make Round Poster Weights

I made some poster weights on commission 4 years ago for a friend who acquired a flat file for his poster collection. I made them out of some scrap blackout fabric I cut off some curtains. I had to hand finish them and it was quite difficult. I made some for myself at the time and wrote it up on Spasms of Accommodation. Since then I've gotten better sewing machines and have learned about cutting 100% polyester with a soldering iron. I thought I'd like to try poster weights again. Maybe my friend could design something neat to have custom printed and I could sew it into weights and put them on my Etsy store.

I tried a rectangle sized to fit a set of weights in a Priority Mail Small Flat Rate Box. It came out 2 1/2" x 5". I immediately didn't like it and dismantled it to use the shot again. I decided to play with a round shape. I finally worked out a design I like and here's how I did it.

First I had to make a pivot attachment for my sewing machine. Lots of tutorials on YouTube say to tape a thumbtack to the bed of the machine. I had two problems with that. First, I didn't have a thumb tack. Second, if I did have a thumb tack the pointy part would be necessarily large and would make an ugly hole in the middle of the fabric. I did have some sequin pins. These are 7/16" long straight pins with a small head. I got myself a scrap of aluminum flashing and made a backing for my pin to make it stand up like a thumbtack. I just held the pin with pliers and banged it with a hammer. When the pin dulled or bent I pulled it out and used another one. I have a bunch. I only ruined about 5 pins making my tack.
Make a fine gauge thumbtack equivalent
After I got the pin through the hole I bent the edges of the aluminum so it would sit flat, taking up the space of the pin head. Then I put a dab of Superglue on the pin head and let it dry overnight.
Pin in the aluminum scrap
I put some masking tape on my aluminum scrap so it won't scratch my sewing machine. I drew some lines on it to help line up the pin where I want it.
Tape applied to aluminum to prevent scratching the machine
I made a little gauge with a scrap of file folder to position my pin in the right place. I placed the card next to my jig and marked 1 1/4" and 2" from the pin so I can get a reliable radius. I taped the outside then moved the card and taped the inside.
Repeatable radius jig

Pin taped down at 1 1/4"
With my pin in place I stabbed it with the leg of some tights I picked up on clearance at Target. This is going to be my secondary containment for the lead shot. If I do a lot more of these I can buy continuous rolls of stockinette on Amazon. They sell it for bandages. 
Circle sewn, opening left for filling
 After I sewed circles out of all the stockinette I had I moved my pin out to a 2" radius.

2" radius set up
I cut some 5" squares of polyester outdoor fabric. With right sides together I stabbed the center on the pin and sewed the circles, leaving an opening for filling.

Here's a close-up of the pin through the fabric. 
I could stick a piece of an eraser on this pin while I'm sewing if I wanted to not stab myself. But it seemed to stay put fine and I only pricked myself once and not that bad.

After I sewed the circle I cut off the excess fabric with my $3.99 Harbor Freight soldering iron. This glass table makes it a cinch to cut and seal these man made fibers.
Cut around the sewn line with a soldering iron
 I use a pair of hemostats to turn the circle right side out. Get cheap hemostats from PJ Tool.
Hemostat helps turn right side out

Turning circle with the hemostat

Turning circle with the hemostat 2

To finish turning I use an 8mm wooden knitting needle

Push the edges out and finger press the seam
Now to the actual weighty part. I found a lot of weights for sale that are filled with sand, which is probably ok, but sounds messy. I also found a lot filled with rice, which is just weird to me. It could attract bugs and it could absorb moisture and make a damp place in your flat file. And aside from that it just isn't that heavy. I like a weight to feel heavy for it's size. I like lead. I want these to be not too fat though, so I'm going to try just half a pound of lead. I tested it to see if it it's enough to flatten a curled up roll of EVA foam. One in each corner will do it, but more is better.
Weigh out half a pound of lead shot
Now back to the inner circle. I cut off the excess fabric with scissors. Stick a funnel in the opening and fill with the 8 ounces of lead shot.
Add lead shot to the secondary containment vessel
The shot just goes right in there. This part is fun.

Poke the excess fabric back in the hole and sew it up on the sewing machine. This is the inside part so it won't show.

Sew up the opening on the secondary containment

I took a picture of putting the secondary containment inside the turned circle but it was blurry. It's kind of hard to get it in there with a small opening, but I like a small gap in the stitching better than a big one that is hard to shape into the curve.

Turn the excess fabric into the opening after the pink lead filled bag is in there. Sew all the way around the edge of the circle so the closing stitches blend in and look on purpose. I use my seam guide at an angle to sew right at the edge of the bag.

Seam guide helps sew right at the edge.
Here's the final product. Having all the lead shot held away from the edge leaves a sort of lip that makes it a lot easier to pick up the circle weight. 
I like this design. I need to get my hands on some more stockinette and some different fabric patterns and see what kind of pretty circle weights I can make. I find weights very handy around the lab. I use my StarTac case weight all the time. That one is over a pound. I may try making some other heavier circles too.

Tuesday, May 22, 2018

Graduation Laundry Bag

When I graduated from high school in 1985 a lot of things were different. I had my own computer, but there was no internet. Instead of cell phones we had to remember phone numbers and dial them by hand on land line phones and pay long distance charges.

But one thing was the same. If you wanted clean clothes you had to wash, dry, and fold.

My Aunt Dorian gave me a big denim sack with my initials on it for my high school graduation. I took that sack to Georgia Tech. Once a week or so I would cram all my dirty clothes and sheets and towels in there and lug it across the street from old-timey Glenn dorm that didn't even have air conditioning to the new-fangled dorm that had coin operated laundry machines in the basement. It was a long skinny bag with a round bottom. My folded clothes would stay folded when I pushed them back into the bag when they were all clean. It was a very good graduation gift. I wish I hadn't spilled epoxy on it in the '90s. Anyway, that's why laundry bags are now my traditional graduation gift for nieces.

My niece Brenna just got done at Jupiter High School. Here is her report:
My graduation was yesterday morning. The senior graduating class was 777 students! I walked across the stage for less than 5 seconds of the 3 hour and 30 minute ceremony. 
I graduated with only 211 other people. So that's another thing that is different.

I have more nieces to go, so I thought I should document how I made this bag. If Brenna gives me notes on how it works I can make improvements in the next version. Let's start with finished photos:

Front View, un-cinched with a pillow inside
The basic structure is a box bottom sewn to a cylinder. The yellow bottom is made of 100% Nylon Cordura canvas. I bought a 1/2 yard of all the different colors of yellow they had at Seattle Fabric to see which one matched my board game. I used half of a sample for the bottom.

The patterned fabric is Waverly outdoor canvas, 100% polyester. I got a yard of this at Joann when it was 70% off just because it's pretty.

The lining is a royal blue 100% nylon taffeta. It's been in my stash about 16 years.

Side View, un-cinched
The strap is made from the 8" strip left when I cut the main fabric rectangle. It's backed with 3" orange grosgrain ribbon I had leftover from the FLORIDA sash for the Women's March.
Back view with strap

Box Bottom:

To start, look at your heavy fabric and decide how big to make the box bottom. I folded a t-shirt and measured it and decided to make a 14"x9" rectangle. I had enough width in my piece of fabric to add 4" to all sides. In hindsight this may have been too big for folded clothes. It is a great bag for carrying all your bedding in though.

I marked 4” squares in the corners on the wrong side and sewed them right sides together with heavy duty needle and thread. I left long tails and hand sewed the flaps folded toward the small ends. I cut the Cordura with scissors because it has a coating and doesn't unravel.

Cut Bottom Rectangle: 22" x 17"
Finished Size: 14" x 9" x 4"
Circumference: 46"

Bag Body:

Cut main canvas piece: 27” x 49”
Finished size: 27" tall open cylinder
Circumference: 46"

For the 100% polyester fabric I marked it with a white Scribe-All pencil and then cut it using a $3.99 Harbor Freight soldering iron and a pica pole. (A long metal ruler) Make a tall tube out of the pattern canvas. You need to leave an opening for a drawstring, so mark 2 3/4" from the top edge and skip 1/2". My fabric has a definite right side up, so be sure you get this correct.

Switch sewing machine to regular size needle and thread to match the other fabric. I used royal blue, the lining color. With right sides together sew quite a large seam to achieve 46” circumference. Mine was just shy of 1 1/2". You may want to sew around the opening like for a buttonhole but wait to do that until you're sure you don't have to adjust this seam to fit the bottom.


Join Bottom and Body:

Turn the bottom inside out and put 1/2” EZ-Steam II seam tape on the edge. I gave this a quick press over the backing paper with the iron on low setting. That helps it stay on one side when you reposition the layers. I put a label in at this stage, sticking it to the seam tape on the bottom so it would come out right no matter how many times I redid the next step.

Put the bottom inside the tube so right sides are together.  I used a ruler to get the seam 7" from a corner on one of the long sides. Secure bottom edge of bag fabric onto the box bottom with binder clips. Go around and be sure circumference is right. Remove cylinder and adjust the seam as needed.

Go back to the heavy duty needle and heavy outdoor thread. Sew cylinder to bottom with 1/2" seam allowance.

Fold patterned fabric up and top stitch through seam allowance with the heavy thread to make it neat. (This is the same outdoor thread I use for the lines on the star on the WatUR cases.)

Close-up showing the texture of the cordura compared to silkscreened canvas


Lining

Switch sewing machine to regular needle and thread for the lining.

Cut lining, 2 pieces: 25” x 38”
Finished size: 38" tall pillow case shape
Circumference at top edge: 46"

For the lining I'm going to make an ordinary box bottom bag with drawstrings on both sides. It's going to take more fabric. (I originally cut two 25” x 44” rectangles. These were 6” too long. I finished the whole lining and tested it in the bag and determined what it needed to be and I ripped the seams at the bottom and moved the box bottom up 6". This made the fabric at the bottom double thickness for the prototype bag. I figured it would help it be extra stiff? 25” x 38” would be better.)

I marked the rectangles with a white Scribe-All and cut the nylon taffeta lining with the soldering iron.

Mark openings in the seams 4” and 4 3/4” from the top. Don't sew between the lines. Make another pair of marks about 6" apart in the middle of one seam for turning. Measure 23" across the middle to determine your seam allowance. You need to be sure you're going to end up with the same circumference as your box bottom. Sew seams right sides together, and across the bottom leaving gaps for the drawstrings and for turning.

Turn the lining right side out and insert it in the main fabric and pin it around the top edge to be sure it is the same circumference. If not, adjust the side seams before going forward. Take the lining out of the bag again.

Box bottom in lining

I used a file folder cut with a square corner. (Cereal box is also good) I put a ruler across the corner to find a 9" hypotenuse, the length of the short sides of my box bottom. I made sure the two legs of the triangle were equal, drew a line, and cut out the triangle. Insert the cardboard triangle with the 90° point going into the corner seam of the lining. With the seams all open, fold the lining around the cardboard triangle so the seams line up down the middle of the triangle. Press with a cool iron. Draw the line on the fabric along the hypotenuse of the triangle and take out the cardboard. Sew the line. Then secure the flap up the side for stiffness. Repeat on the other side.


Make the Strap

I had an 8” strip leftover from cutting the main fabric so I just used that. Fold over the two sides to make a 3” wide strip. Sew grosgrain ribbon on top of the raw edges. It doesn't have to be this wide. I just had that 3" ribbon so I went for that width. I sewed the strap with orange top thread and a blue bobbin. You can kind of see blue dots on the ribbon side, but I like it better than a blue line.

Close-up of strap attachment.
I cut the ends with the soldering iron so they don’t unravel. I pinned the strap over the seam of the bag from the box bottom to 3" below the drawstring opening. Using orange thread to match the ribbon I sewed through the big seam allowance and the strap with several rows of stitches 1/2” apart. I left 1/2” loose at the bottom and stopped the top below where the lining will be sewn down. Then I tried on the bag to determine how long to make the strap. I cut off about 6” of it.

Final strap length: 44 1/2”
23 3/4” loose
19 3/4” sewed to the bag

I sewed the two pieces of strap together to get the finished end underneath. Then folded it at the bottom and secured it about an inch up the back going back and forth a few times. I switched back to the blue thread for this since it was showing on the patterned side. This hides all the hot cut ends inside. It's fairly stiff because there's 5 layers of canvas in there, plus the grosgrain ribbon. My 1951 Singer 301 sewed this like it was nothing. My Singer from the '90s that I only use to wind bobbins would break the needle trying to sew this much heavy fabric though. Be warned.


Sew In the Lining

Turn the lining right side out and turn the bag with the bottom inside out. Mark the halfway point from the center back seam to line up the side seams of the lining. (Half 14" + Half 9" = 11 1/2" from the center back seam) Put the lining into the inside-out bag. Be sure the box bottoms line up. The side seams should be on the mark. Work around, pinning the fabric together. If it doesn’t come out, adjust the side seams on the lining.

When it’s right unpin it and take it out and sew the seam allowances open on the lining. Do any finishing you want around the openings for the draw strings now too. Finish the ends of the threads to the wrong side and then pin the two parts together again.

Sew the lining to the outside with a 1/2” seam allowance.

Turn the whole thing right side out through the hole in the side seam of the lining.


Make Drawstring Channels

Now fold the outside fabric down so the opening for the drawstring is at the edge and the lining seam is about where the strap attaches. Pin this in place with a consistent edge. Sew right at the lining seam. Then sew a 1” channel for the drawstring.
Lining is sewn to the outer fabric but then that is folded down into the bag to make a second drawstring channel.

Next fold the nylon to line up the drawstring opening at the edge and sew that channel.

Cord lock secured to back of bag above strap


Finishing

For finishing I cut a length of ribbon to attach a cord lock for a white cord in the outer fabric. I used blue satin cord in a double pull configuration for the lining. I heat sealed all the ends and threaded them through the channels with a yarn needle.

I sewed up the hole in the lining (from turning it right-side out) by hand.

I used some of the yellow thread to tack the corners of the lining to the bottom of the bag.

Finished size:
Base: 14” x 9”
27” from bottom to top of patterned section
Strap 23 3/4” loose, 19 3/4” sewn to bag

Folds to 8” x 11” x 2”
Weighs 1 pound

Here's the finished bag with the drawstrings pulled closed


Inner drawstring only. This one you just yank the two sides.

Second drawstring with cord lock at back of bag

Side view cinched shut

Front view cinched up. Drawstrings shown not tucked in.
You could tuck the drawstrings into the bag if you have to put it in the car or something.

Top can fold down when you're starting to fill it up with folded clothes
With the leftover fabric from the yard of Waverly outdoor stuff I made another little drawstring bag with blue lining. This fabric is a bit stiff for a really cute bag. I'm not sure what this is a good size for. It will fit a giant iPhone. Or about $40 in rolled quarters. I will send it to Brenna for whatever she might need to carry around. Pens and pencils, chapstick, medicine. To go in her backpack or whatever.

I also made a tiny pouch with the 6" I cut off the strap. This is possibly the easiest thing I ever made. I burned two holes in it with the soldering iron to put in the snap first. Then I snapped it closed, pinned the sides, opened it, sewed the side seams, and it was done. The raw heat sealed edge is unabashedly the edge of the item. It's got a bright orange lining though!


Fold It Up

One advantage this drawstring bag has over regular luggage is it folds up pretty neat. Here's how it goes.

Fold up the bottom to one side like a grocery sack


Fold the sides into the middle to make it in thirds

Fold the bottom up where it naturally wants to fold

Spin it around and open up the last bit to fold it around the stiff bottom part

Insert the yellow bottom part between the layers of the top

Final folded package is a tidy little bundle to put away until needed again

This folding feature is going to make it very easy for me to mail this to Brenna tomorrow. I save envelopes.

Only tangentially related to this, but I'm flabbergasted and have to put this here. I just looked up Glenn Dorm to see if it had one n or two and the Georgia Tech website lists how much it costs to live there now. It has gone up nearly an order of magnitude! 7.5 times the 1985 price to be more precise. I distinctly remember it was $305 per quarter because it was about $100 cheaper than my brother's dorm on West Campus that had air conditioning. Three quarters in a typical year, so my dad forked over $915 a year for me to live in Atlanta and go to school. Now school is just two semesters and it would cost $6850 to spend your freshman year in Glenn! Whole Lee Shit. That must have been some renovation they did in 2015. Oh look, on site laundry! I bet these machines are on the internet. I wonder if they have one laundry room that is strictly for unscented detergent and no dryer sheets? They should.
Laundry machines in my old dormitory. Weren't there in 1985.
This renovation gave them laundry rooms on every freaking floor of the dorm, plus elevators! You might as well have a wheels on your laundry bag. Oh well. Maybe Brenna will still have to deal with stairs and will be glad for her shoulder strap.

Thursday, April 19, 2018

Introducing WatUR: Not a KickstartUR, Actual Games For Sale



WatUR is now for sale on my Etsy store. I've listed one because I've only finished one. I have 11 more ready to sew up. As soon as they're done I'll edit the listing and release some coupons and do some promotions.

This is the best game I've ever played. It's easy to learn and instantly engaging. Whenever I get new people to play it so I can watch I have a good time watching them enjoy the give and take of offense and defense that seems like the decision to be made with every roll of the dice. And then in the end it always comes down to such an exciting, close finish everybody feels evenly matched and as though it's all fair in the end.

Most of my play testing and rules development has been with my nieces, Kate, Brenna, and Kara. After I developed the expansion pack and the final case design I went down to my brother's house to play a few rounds with Brenna and Kara. I woke Kara up early on Saturday morning and made her model for me in the pool before the sun got too high. Kara is 14 and it is not in her nature to get up early on a Saturday. She was a very good sport and an excellent model. I used my brother's cell phone to take these underwater photos and videos. I still can't believe how great it turned out. Later that night Brenna and I sat on the side of the pool on a towel and played two games in a row with our feet dangling in the water. It was exactly as fun as I hoped it would be.
Playing WatUR on the side of the pool
This deluxe version of WatUR comes in a floating case called a presURver. It is good for travel. It fits in a tote bag or backpack. The fabric is Solarmax 100% nylon with a water repellant finish and superior UV resistance.

I've shown the board, dice and stones going into a dishwasher because it is theoretically dishwasher safe. At low heat and without detergent I would absolutely do it. But high heat and strong chlorine based detergents would likely degrade the dice or leave unsightly watermarks on the board. I don't actually recommend putting WatUR in the dishwasher. I'd just hand wash it. (I don't even own a dishwasher though. I understand some people just don't hand wash things.) If it's so contaminated it's either that or throw it away, go ahead and stick it in the dishwasher. Let me know how it comes out. If the black dice and stones get chalky try rubbing them with some car polish to bring the color back. While all of the parts are fine in the water and sun for a little while they can't stay in the water continuously. Don't set up a game of WatUR as an aquarium decoration. And don't try to wash the case with laundry. Just rinse it off and wipe it down. Dry it out of direct sun if possible. Every time I've gotten a case wet it was dry again in under an hour.
The PresURver floats with the game inside
The board is fiberglass with etched copper lines. I would love to see what it looks like on an airport security x-ray monitor. All the lines should show up at high contrast because they are copper. Be sure to pack it so it is flat on to the x-rays and not on edge. That would be boring.

All the contents of this premier edition of WatUR
The rules I've written for WatUR are the ones Tom Scott and Irving Finkel played on International Tabletop Day in 2017. I've read other rules but these are the ones I like.

I read the full white paper Finkel wrote on his translation of the cuneiform tablet referenced in the video linked above. The main point of it was that stars are lucky. He deduced that players would have a pile of tokens that they would use as sort of gambling and to reinforce that lucky aspect of the squares with the stars. I find it interesting that the board the British Museum found is actually decorated with rosettes, not stars. Mine has stars. And now with the expansion pack it also has 30 tokens for rewarding you for landing on a star and penalizing you for passing over one. I call this ElabURation.
ElabURation and FloURishes
I made up another expansion called FloURishes. This is entirely my invention. The first time Kate played with it against her boyfriend Matt she made him run out of tokens entirely. We made up the rules for that instance on the spot. Running out of tokens is bursting. You lose.

Inside the presURver there are three pURses that hold the dice and stones as well as ElabURation and FloURishes.
Black dice and stones

White dice and stones
I'm really glad I matched the dice and stones because if I play one game as white then the next time I play as black I might forget and try to move the wrong stone. Anything that reduces my cognitive load leaves more energy for coping with the fact I'm in a social situation with another person.
Please buy WatUR!